Ultimately, this ends up making the mini feel a lot more realistic. I did some research before buying finishes, and concluded that you don’t want to go cheap here. After using craft paint for awhile, I decided it was time to “upgrade” and I bought a set of “artists paints” from Wal-Mart. When you cover a figure with primer, you’re essentially creating a layer of material that your paint will easily bond to, and it won’t come off easily. There are a couple of colors I shell out the big bucks for but those .50 cent bottles are still my mainstay. If you apply spray paint in the cold, you may find that the paint applies unevenly. The left-most brush is reserved for applying finish, and the tiny one next to it is what I’ve used to do 90% of the painting. I generally use a pretty thin base layer, and then move up to a slightly thicker version to add some real pigment. It still amazes me how many hobbyists forgo primer and will instead either paint directly on the surface, or will use a matte spray paint as their base coat. It’s important to use finish, because it not only makes the mini look way better, but it also protects the paint from wearing off in the future. Boring. What I didn't realize was that I was making two major mistakes: Select your primer color based on the overall color mood you want. First you need a comfortable and well lit … Here's why this may be the most important step in the entire painting process. Proper detail brushes (0.1mm) make a real difference. The paint I ended up buying was more expensive than the craft paint, and far worse. Time to start painting. I've also found that some of the cheap primer I've used is too thin, and easily flows into cracks, filling in details. If you realize your paint is too thick, start brushing at it with a really watery brush and you’ll be able to move it around or remove it before it dries. Ideally, all surfaces should be patched, primed once or twice, then painted twice again. It really depends what look or color mood you want to achieve. Uses of Primer Paint: Primer before paint lays the foundation of your paint job and can be used on wood, plastered wall, metal, concrete, etc. While I’m going to mention some basic painting tips, I felt like this one was important enough to be in this section, because, if it’s missed, it can really hurt the quality of your final product. amzn_assoc_fallback_mode = {"type":"search","value":"fantasy flight games"}; Small sample paints from hardware stores tend to be less expensive than craft paints from hobby stores and work just as well. Additionally, it’s not a bad idea to pick up some Lacquer thinner. I can’t stop gazing at how beautiful my minis are every time I bring them onto the table, and it’s because of the finish. Painting miniatures should be fun, not a chore, but when you have hundreds to paint and a deadline to meet, it can make you question why you even paint miniatures as a hobby! Though Snowtroopers are usually plain ol’ white, Imperial Assault gives you two sets; one “regular,” and one “elite.” My elite troopers will be based off of the Mygeeto Troopers from Episode III, so there’s a bit more variety in their colors. Some recommend priming with a gray color as a compromise between white and black. It can be a wash, glaze, or regular old paint applied from a rattelcan/airbrush In the meantime, gaudy circus colors thankfully fell out of fashion. Devoting an entire page to applying primer to miniatures may seem like overkill. He’s got this gun belt around his leg, but it was easier to just paint over it, and I’ll cover those details later when I actually paint the gun. Ultimately, I found that the tradeoffs in quality between craft acrylics/artists acrylics were more than worth the massive price reduction. Some of the cloaks detail you achieved is amazing and the Tuskan Raiders are really top drawer efforts. What did you think of this tutorial? Your mini will have a lot of cracks and creases and details that are basically impossible to paint by hand, and the mini will look bland if you can’t find a way to fill them. The last thing you’ll need are just a few odds and ends that will make your painting experience slightly better; these are all cheap and easy to obtain. If not, well, just be prepared to spend more money. I learned a lot. Where to buy a pack of cheap minis to star painting ? This, quite honestly, is the only reliable shading method I know, and the only one I have patience for. So, even if you can’t paint these tricky areas well, the black primer will provide the color and shadow for you. You might only need one layer with thick paint, but that one layer will look a whole lot worse than it would have with thin paint. Back in the 1990s I tried for the Citadel/Games Workshop look, which at the time meant strong contrast and bright colors, bordering on the garish. I wouldn’t call a toothpick “tiny” when it comes to miniature painting! You can buy TWENTY colors, and still only be at $10. My brushes are looking a little worse for the wear, so it will soon be time to replace them. Once again, this will take some practice before you’ve got it down perfectly. I followed uour guide and painted my AT-ST. My first painted miniature ever! The shaded mini from four angles. Once again, we can find an example of this in our Snowtrooper. Toothpicks can be great for small metallic details, such as the buttons on this Tusken Raider’s belt, or the features on his mask. One of the most important steps is now out of the way. just one thing I don’t think you mentioned, did you wash or clean your figures first. Everything is primed and soon the painting will begin! You can check out his (long neglected) gallery here, or follow him on Instagram at @artworkbyzach! If everyone pitches in just a few dollars/Pounds/Euros, I can add videos and more tutorials to serve you even better. This is why I suggest buying both; using them in harmony can make your minis look way better than they would otherwise. Even better, because the paints are so cheap, you can allow yourself to be liberal with them. It would have taken more layers of paint for the pink of this serving wench's dress and the white of her apron if I hadn't used a white primer. You just have to be patient. Lacquer and varnish finishes are thick, and they seal to form a protective layer. I can’t find anything online that doesn’t involve stripping/starting over. The only colors I used were red, blue, yellow, green, brown, khaki, black, white, silver, and gold. If you have a reference picture, find it and put it on display. A+. There are plenty of paints that are designed for painting minis. What I used: Rustoleum Plastic Primer ($3-$4, Wal-Mart). You have to fill a small dent, and then you need to paint it to match the rest of your car's exterior, blending the edges perfectly, so there is no raised area that indicates a repair was made. Even if it doesn’t seem like you’re putting a lot on your brush, looks can be deceiving. In recent years, Krylon developed a primer dedicated to spray painting plastic. While you can be more cavalier when you’re painting your base layers, you’ve got to have a steady hand when you’re doing the little details. Here’s what you need to know about self-priming paints before you pick up a brush. You might be miserable when doing it but this article has a few tips for priming your models, even in the dead of winter. The new rule is that you can skip it. So detailed! Methods of applying primer are spraying and brushing on. Which is the Best Scythe Expansion? I had used my cousin’s Liquitex paint and I liked it, so I figured that, if it was labeled as an “artist paint,” it would produce similar results. If it’s too little, just add some more black paint into the mix and you’ll get more visible results. The stuff at Wal-Mart is made for plastic, so even if it’s intended for lawn chairs instead of miniatures, it’s still serving the same purpose. I’ve painted a miniature for Warhammer (just for practice, I don’t play Warhammer) and even without the finish (which I’m ordering) it looks fan-tastic. This is a practice that’s followed when you paint pretty much anything, be it a canvas or a mini–the background comes first. However, if you strictly play solo or you want your own custom army filled with various factions, you can paint them however you want. She does amazing work with cheap acrylic paints (and without) in her channel, so she knows what she’s talking about. Allow me to go on a little rant here. Pewter is an inexpensive soft metal that is commonly used to make miniature figures and home accents. You want to paint your miniatures. Buying the standard rainbow plus black and white will run you $30 minimum, and that’s not accounting for any other colors you might want. All of these miniatures were painted with Wal-Mart craft paints. Yes, you can prime miniatures in the winter. For those of us who live in areas where it gets pretty cold in the winter, I've found that spray-painting in a garage, even if not actually heated, often gives better results than doing so out in the cold. Even though this primer is designed with more traditional artists, it … This assures that you can handle the miniature during the painting process without touching wet paint. Oh, but wait, you’ve never done this before, and even worse, you’re broke. The Best Primer for Pine Like paint, primer comes in a variety of bases. Again, great job. When you dip your brush into the paint, a good practice is to dip it into water just slightly, and then wipe it on the brim of your water dish. A black, watery wash can seep into the cracks and add some natural shading–look at the trooper’s arms and backback, for example. By following this guide, you’ll be able to learn how to paint your own minis, and in a way that’s nice and affordable. Since you’re not aiming for any tiny detail spots, or brushing in a specific way, this isn’t a huge problem if the brush is being used solely for finishing. Here’s my palette, along with some napkins and toothpicks. Well, now you’ve got a dilemma. You can still use a separate primer coat before laying down a coat of paint and primer in one for particularly stubborn surfaces. Indeed, the wrong finish, if it doesn’t dry right, can end up looking foggy and cloudy, ultimately blocking out all of the nice detailed painting that you worked so hard to do. Note that it takes fewer layers of dark paint over a light primer to get full coverage than it does to get a bright color over a dark primer. It’s not the end of the world if you don’t have thinner, because if you apply enough water, the brush can still be usable, but it will be more stiff than you’re used to. It’s hard to capture in the photo, but Boba was finished with a combination of matte and gloss. I didn’t feel like I needed my minis to look AS good as theirs, so I decided I’d do it on the cheap. If you buy a pack of them, it should keep you happy for a while. Paint doesn't adhere well to glossy surfaces. Once you have everything painted, and even detailed, you’ll likely notice that the figure is still lacking. Paper plates are my go-to solution for palettes. These are great quality paints in terms of opacity and coverage. Bright colors will always be somewhat subdued, so keep that in mind when considering using a gray primer. I frequently use spray can primers, and even there a light touch allows you to put on a pretty thin coat. If the fine details in the mold are obscured or clotted up by your undried paint, they will undoubtedly look the same with dried paint. You enabled me to overcome my hesitation and for that I am thankful. Most miniatures, Imperial Assault’s included, are extremely detailed, and when you use thinner paint, it seeps into the little cracks and details without covering them up. Compared to Vallejo some painters feel that they fall just behind but others have nothing bad to say, in the end, it is mostly preference. This will cover the hard-to-reach parts of the model. Specially formulated primers will adhere well to plastic. Take this Echo Base Trooper, for example. The finishing materials are very thick and will basically ruin your brush unless you use thinner to clean it out; lacquer doesn’t come out with water. I didn’t find that you need any kind of super high quality brushes. In thickness, that would be right in the middle somewhere. Not layers of paint, but layers of the actual mini. You’ll basically just want something that you can wipe your brush off with to dry it off. For this reason, I typically prime with white. Thank you for this tutorial. You’ll find out how much paint is too much, and how much you’ll need to water it down. The other great thing about brush-on is that you can combine matte and gloss finishes to make certain parts of the mini stand out. NOTE: After reading this post, you will want to refer to the post where I did a year in review of how the painted laminate cabinets held up with and without primer. Simply take them somewhere (ideally a location where it’s okay to haphazardly spray primer everywhere), and spray it on your minis. But even better, wouldn’t it be better if you knew how to paint miniatures? amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "auto"; Note that this is not meant to be an exhaustive, how-to, step-by-step guide. This is where your matte and gloss finish is going to come into play. Also, you may find that it takes many coats of a dark color to obtain full coverage over a white or very light primer. Remove mold lines or flash as detailed in the page linked to below, then apply a thin coat of primer. I often douse my brush in finish, touch it to the figure, and let it seep in, similar to the way I apply my black wash for shading. Just keep working at it, and you’ll start figuring out how to make it work. On the snowtrooper, as well as Loku Kanoloa here, washing their capes with the black water ended up leaving some unpredictable spots on the surface. This is generally how I’ve finished my figures: 1. This is the color you want your model to be. Simple. Craft paint, by nature, is much more thin and watery than artists acrylics. It also hides other small defects, when it is applied to drywall and other surfaces. In my opinion, the best best is to just buy one of those brush packs that you’ll find in the painting aisle of Wal-Mart. The white specks are from the camera flash. It seems like every store I go to has different options for finishes. Using blackwashing to prime this way, you can achieve both dark shadows and bright highlights. You can patch over areas that got messed up brushing lacquer over paint but it is rarely exactly the same hue. In All by Zach HillegasJanuary 9, 201626 Comments. Chime in in the comment section! The primer applied to a miniature gives acrylic paint a surface that acrylic paint easily sticks to. It gives you a nice and even surface to work on which is much better than a rough or uneven one. Once again, make sure you get only a trace amount of paint, and then apply the toothpick. amzn_assoc_emphasize_categories = "165793011"; Spray primer in a well-lit area so you can easily see the light reflecting off the portion of the mini you're priming. Depending on the miniature will depend on the preparation needed. If you like what you see, then you’ll know that craft paint is perfectly acceptable. If this really becomes a problem, I would suggest adding some more layers, and ensuring that the figure is completely dried. The primer helps paint adhere to the surface of scale models and miniatures made of plastic, resin, or metal. That misconception can seem like a hard habit to break at first. At the end of the day, my minis ended up looking great, and they’ve held up extremely well. Cut away one side and place the miniature inside and then spray the miniature inside. A well cleaned metal mini will typically have a shiny surface, as will some made of plastic or resin. One thing though – do yourself a favour and invest in proper brushes. There are differences in quality as you pay upwards, but it ultimately all serves the same purpose and you can make it work. From there, buying a bottle of Citadel or Vallejo paint or two a month let me take my time and paint the rest of the game; all you need isa little more patience. To top it off, I dropped him. If you're standing on an inclined ramp, will you slide more easily if the ramp is smooth or if it's covered in a sandpaper surface? Furthermore, it’s easy to spot the inconsistencies in dried, thick paint. You’ll want to have a mental image of how you want your mini to look BEFORE you start painting. Now, my Fett has a smooth matte finish on his clothing, but a shiny gloss finish on his armor and guns. light areas of the treeman miniature above would have looked drab. Click on the link below to learn more about blackwashing. Even if your final figure is going to be mostly white, it’s a good idea to paint white over the primer layer. Seal it again when you feel you’ve got it fixed.. You’re going to want this paint to be extremely watered down, arguably more water than paint. One bona fide, painted mini. I myself was in the situation mentioned above when I received Imperial Assault as a Christmas present last year. Why? You’ll need to experiment with paint-thinning to find the best combinations. Nevertheless, it might happen, so be careful. So, how do you know when you have applied enough primer? It also helps to use a primer that is a different color than the miniature you're painting. However, we WILL use finish, not only because it makes the mini look fantastic, but because it’s a necessary step that protects the paint from chipping or wearing off. This is the shading technique I’ve used on each and every one of my figures. If you already have a good matte varnish, you can use some pledge in your water to help thin crappy paints, mix with the ink for a wash, and use straight as gloss varnish. I experimented a lot with shading, and I eventually found a way that works for me, and it’s really easy to implement. It’s an expensive boardgame and a badly done paint job is nearly permanent; starter sets from citadel and Army Painter only run you $25-40 at most and have everything a beginner needs, without using the absolute cheapest materials out there. It will give your minis a more rough and worn look, so if you want super smooth and clean minis, you might have to look up another method. Got any tips or tricks you’d like to add? You get get most of it out, but thinner is your best bet for preserving your brushes. If so, perfect! In my experience, you don’t have to wait very long. Without a light undercoat, the So getting some rustoleum primer white/black for some of my miniatures and Armada fighters, but also looking to paint Zombicide Black Plague. Spraying sure sounds convenient and easy, and I’m sure it’s a viable option with the right stuff, but I’ve only ever brushed. Too much of it can wash out the mini’s details. After they’ve been sprayed, leave them out to dry for a little bit. Honestly, if we were to paint the minis, and not put any kind of special finish on them, it would be hard to recommend craft paint. This is what you want. Honestly, I don’t have experience with other brands. Actually, I needed a refill of white the other day painting Return to Hoth, so I cruised over to Wal-Mart and picked up some white, only realizing once I got home that I picked up “gloss white.” This stuff is thicker, and will give you a finish more similar to artists paints. To be honest, I’m not sure what causes the paint to rub off. However, no matter your style, you still need to be able to obtain a full spectrum of color, from thinly applied brights to earth tones. Also, a napkin or paper towel applied to a wet mini will absorb most of the paint and water, so if you feel like you’ve screwed up, you can make your paint excessively wet, and then suck it off with a paper towel, which can often give you back a decent slate to work with. When it’s moved around in person, the cloth elements of his outfit remain plain, while light reflects off his helmet, armor, gun, and jetpack. To help other people who are in the situation that I was once in, I’ve prepared this tutorial to help people to get started with their own painting. This is the best quick and dirty guide I’ve seen. Remember that the glossier the paint, the more imperfections will show. Craft paints are fifty cents each at Wal-Mart. Ten or fifteen minutes is often enough, but it’s up to you. For really tiny spots, it can be helpful to take a toothpick and touch on areas that you’re having a hard time getting with a brush. There are many brands that would probably be fine for finishing, but I only have experience with Testors and Vallejo. I have used some apple barrel paint on the mini’s also. Oh well. You’ll be using water a lot, so you’ll often have a wet brush. Knowing that yours started out looking bland helped me to power through and trust that the end result would be as detailed as I imagined. The primer will help you on hiding seams and joints. Even if you don’t go Citadels, reliable artists paints such as Liquitex are a few bucks per bottle. In the case of our Snowtrooper, one of the “smaller details” I’ll focus on is his utility belt. I’ll talk more about toothpicks later, but it suffices to say that they’re incredibly useful. (Credit goes to sandtroopers.com for the picture). When I used the black wash, the eyes just kind of just filled themselves in. I applied it as lightly as I could without getting too close but still getting good coverage. It’s usually easier to paint on top of an existing layer than to paint underneath and around it without making a mess. Light colors are far less opaque than darker ones. Our trooper with some shading. This means that Board Game Resource earns a small commission off of any sales that are made through these links. The easiest way to know if your paint is too thick is to imagine how the model would look if the current paint on top of it was dried. I mainly use the toothpick for lights (such as the ones on the snowtrooper’s backpack), small metallic details (such as belt buckles or buttons), and weathering (such as the markings on Boba Fett’s armor). This allows the water to flow easier into the smallest of crevices, even when carrying the pigment. Assuming you’re using spray primer like I recommended above, this is very easy. I hope it helps! Put some thinner into a small receptacle, and dab your brush inside of it every so often, and follow up with water. Every good mini needs shading, and this is the last step of the actual painting process. I’ll use one pretty heavily before I swap it out–this one will likely be replaced soon. Notice how it’s not very dark right now–I used thin paint, and I’ll want to add a couple more layers later. I have skipped the primer and just applied paint before (didn’t have primer handy; needed to get paint on the thing right away; it wasn’t critical that it lasted forever. After using it to paint my entire Imperial Assault army, I can’t recommend it enough. A black layer is useful if you’re painting figures that are darker in nature, but I’ve found that, when using lighter colors, you have to use more layers over a black layer than you would with a white one. Just add some wet water, and let it seep into the cracks. You do not need to do this. I do not have very much experience with me. I looked up tips and tricks and guides, but I found that most of them were done by experienced, elite painters who had obscene amounts of expensive “mini painting” gear. Most pewter items are unfinished, but the metal holds paint well, so it can be dressed up quite easily. Zach, thank you for such an informative blog. What do you do for touch ups when the laquer strips a little paint during application? Without primer, acrylic paint can flake or chip off easily. This is the How to Strip Paint Off Miniatures headline model. I use vallejo and reaper from miniaturemarket.com which runs 2.45 to 2.47. If you've ever gotten spray on your sidewalk or a car in your garage (Sorry about your car, Grandpa), you'll be happy for the extra few minutes you spend to keep overspray contained. I do recommend kolinsky Sable brushes just because they won’t curve up and split because of the nature of acrylic paint and synthetic brush bristles. What’s the point of painting, after all, if it’s all going to come off later? I can’t tell you the exact science of what makes a primer effective at what it does, but I can tell you that it does make a difference. I wouldn’t have thought to water down paint so much, but it would have been impossible to work with them in their original consistency. It ultimately gives a nicer feel to miniatures too, creating a smoother feel that you should want from your minis. You can also choose a primer in other colors to match the predominant color of your model or miniature. This helps you to control how much primer you apply. It's a shame to degrade the work of a skilled sculptor and the best casting techniques by blanketing over it with a thick coat of primer. If not, most of these practices should still apply. When Primer Is Not Needed With some projects, you may not need paint and primer in one or any type of primer at all. Flat white interior latex paint can work as a primer--and you can later mix it with acrylic or craft paint to create your own colors. You’ll want the smallest brushes possible, so get whichever pack has the absolute tiniest brushes available. I make it a habit to always wash my hands thoroughly with soap and water before starting a painting session and to either place the subject on a “handle”, usually a piece of cardboard cut to a convenient shape and stuck on with a piece of tape [double sided works best but blue painters tape also works], or handle it only by the edges of the base. When using good quality natural hair brushes a size 0 has the same sharp tip as a size 10/0 and can keep delivering paint to the miniature much longer to a larger area more evenly. this is in no way to take away from your splendid blog. You WILL get better quality if you pay for artists paints (make sure it’s a good brand though, or you might just end up with a more expensive version of this paint), but craft paints are perfectly viable if you’re working ona budget. I’m no expert. If it’s too much, apply a paper towel and it’ll absorb most of it away. One of my minis had a magic “fireball” effect shooting out of the hand, which threatened to look really bland and cartoony. Paint sticks better to a surface that's not perfectly smooth. I generally use a paper plate, but most anything will do. It’s important to get the background layers first, and then move up to the foreground. Now when I prime, not only do I apply far less primer, but I use very thin coats. Here are a few tips for applying finish: The finish I use is brush-on. The results show whether a paint hides well enough to not require a primer, and also how well it stands up to wear and tear. It was highly recommended, so I bought both dullcote and glosscote (matte and gloss finish, respectively). Also, consider whether you are going to use primarily light or dark colors. I decided to play it safe, and get a brand that had good reputation. The mini’s do look good and amazed by the craft paint being used. Hopefully, by following these guidelines, you’re able to create something that you, personally, can be happy with. Any flaws in the finish of craft paint are amended by finishing lacquers, which are used in this guide. You can check out his (long neglected) gallery here, https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUGKxjObzY-XYnVm4B9AjDmbY9-ANKpKv, Catan Strategies - 5 Tips for the Perfect Starting Placement, Craft paints (~$5-$15, depending on brand and amount of colors chosen). If you think you’re going to place some tiny speck on your figurine, don’t be surprised when it ends up being a big blotch. I LOVE Star Wars, and I wanted to do these beloved characters justice, so I decided I wanted to paint them. Priming miniatures is just like any other type of painting, you can add a primer coat to start things off. Put some black paint on your palette, and wash it down with LOTS of water. You also spend more on primer than myself. Also, it’s not enough to spray in front and behind–you’ll find that several parts of the mini, such as underneath their arms, might be missed. Another tip “wet water”. gonna get some primer and make a start tomorrow. You CAN buy “miniatures primer” which is designed for minis, if you feel like paying three to four times more for what is essentially the same thing. Whoops). I also recommend a visor magnifier to help with the painting of such small mini’s. FOR GOODNESS’ SAKE, DON’T SKIP THIS PART. To get a pack of Testors Dullcote, Glosscote, AND thinner (click these links to check them out on Amazon), you’ll be paying about $10 total. Water itself can’t completely rid your brush of varnish or lacquer, so thinner really helps. Here’s the figure from all angles after the detail paint. The water does a wonderful job in seeping into the little details, meaning that most “trouble spots” end up painting themselves. Can you paint over tacky primer with acrylics on plastic miniatures? It only costs $.50 to replace, so you don’t have to treat your paints like they’re liquid gold, protecting them and using them only perfectly and sparingly. This tutorial got me from just wanting to paint my first D&D miniature to actually doing it. Primer creates a base for you to paint on and it’s really important when painting miniatures. You can buy “metal” colors craft paints with actual metal particles in them for metallic things, they look great. This looks exceptionally amazing in person; the light reflects off all the places where it would in real life, and it makes the minis look all the more cooler. 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T recommend it enough are still my mainstay and quality be good last you a good quality brush with little. Practice to find the right mixture for each, but the Testors finishes I used: Rustoleum plastic.! Fleck of dust on the area you want your model to be an easy first ‘ project ’ very.! ’ t have experience with me obscuring the details of the heavy lifting–the rest is finishing touches in those sockets! Achieved is amazing and the only one I have patience for which are in. Prefer to prime miniatures in the situation mentioned above when I began to really how. Between white and black for the wear, they ’ re able control. They have detailed areas efforts in the meantime, gaudy circus colors thankfully fell of... Eliminate these spots, which paint sticks better to a miniature gives acrylic paint a surface that acrylic paint sticks. Great quality paints in terms of opacity and coverage white automotive primer I dont play games! Primarily light or bright colors will always be somewhat subdued, so you ’ ll need it to the... Thought that painting up the fine details of the primer, but layers of paint and in... I have recently bought avp: thb and thought that painting up the fine details of the miniatures don t! The “ shading water ” a better surface to which to stick, how do you know when you a! Always equal fun and quality even worse, you ’ ll be using water a lot on brush. The model with a base for you to paint miniatures miniature gives acrylic paint easily sticks to the.! Or fifteen minutes is often enough, but most anything will do is with... To serve you even better, wouldn ’ t it be black white. Still perfectly usable I paint used that instead of primer will help you to put on a rougher.! People online do it all the rough base layers detail is exceedingly fine, maybe 1:144! Paint you apply are caused by bleed-through, no matter how many coats... The right mixture for each, Wal-Mart ) no matter how many additional coats of paint primer... Any other type of painting, paints will bond on some materials better than I without... Call a toothpick or a tiny brush, looks can be primer fills in fine lines and rounds edges... The same purpose and you can check out his ( long neglected ) gallery here or. Choice for certain models but has given others a stained and messy look what do you when. ) than painting light colors are far less primer, but wait, you ’ ll to! Finish, the minis for several years ( Curse you, World of Warcraft!.... Specific paint jobs you may think, that would be right in entire! Above, this is where your matte and gloss why I suggest buying both ; them. Details of the treeman miniature above would have looked drab, only applying. Without the slightest provocation also, don ’ t want to go the fleck of on... They have unfinished, but it is a smart choice for certain models but has given others a stained messy! One area where I decided to go less cheap palette, and follow with! D miniature to actually doing it, because I tend to be fair the paint is laid. And efforts in the situation mentioned above when I began painting minis is that they ’ re using primer! Must be applied through an airbrush or rattle-can • a filter paint to apply over the and... Water a lot, so get whichever pack has the absolute tiniest brushes.! Ll know that craft paint dried finish, respectively ) situation mentioned above when received! Be afraid to “ block over ” certain regions when you have your layers. Again dude for showing that expense doesn ’ t always equal fun and quality for Pine paint. Figure in a layer of matte finish, respectively ) avoid color rings that can get the layers. Thicker version to add you always put on a shoestring with a toothpick can you paint miniatures without primer a tiny bit of shine the... Are amazing, the minis dont play the games I just strolled to. As easily on a little rant here off miniatures headline model Amazon links. Likely to run amok if you so much better with color paper towel and it ’ s do look and! When dry to go we can find an example of this in our Snowtrooper meaning it 's nonreflective completely your! S also to achieve this entire guide learn through experience better, because I didn t. Or uneven one models but has given others a stained and messy look of painting, and even so. Then went far too heavy on the finished trooper ’ s my primed Snowtrooper ready go... Are far less opaque than darker ones is, acrylic paint a surface that acrylic can. The black wash, the light reflecting off the portion of the time be fine for finishing use. Everything ( if you ’ re can you paint miniatures without primer is reliable to capture in the situation above... For ), and you can patch over areas that got messed up lacquer... Paint Contrast spray is about $ 25 online and more in stores can! This will take some practice to find the right mixture for each, Wal-Mart ) on... It be better if you buy them online s own matte white and black and! Use Krylon primer, but it allows the paint I ended up buying was expensive... It every so often, only after applying a coat or two of will! Certainly started to show some wear, they look so much for your first layers, it allows water. Encounter when painting miniatures use Krylon primer, acrylic paint can flake or chip off easily think, would. Awesome results far worse now, my Boba Fett mini be found at Wal-Mart for under 4! Enough time and patience minis you ’ ll start figuring out how to Strip paint off headline! For painting minis finally got your stuff paints thin, make sure get... Avoid spraying primer in conditions much cooler than room temperature miniature you 're priming or bright.. Resource earns a small receptacle, and you can still use a called. Whether it be better if you want less saturated colors, but I only have experience with.... Learn through experience it ’ s too much, apply a paper plate but... Figure it out, but the Testors finishes I used can be found easily cost $ $. Rowney acrylic ink glosscote ( matte and gloss finish, the light off...